Aragon

The Zaragoza Bar That Has Been Serving Vermouth and Anchovies for Almost a Century

For much of the 20th century, Zaragoza was full of neighborhood wine cellars selling wine in bulk. Residents brought bottles or jugs to fill directly from the vats. Over the years, most of these businesses disappeared. Antigua Casa Paricio is one of the few bars in Zaragoza that still preserves part of that tradition in the city’s historic center (Coso No. 188).
The Zaragoza Bar That Has Been Serving Vermouth and Anchovies for Almost a Century

The business dates back to the late 1920s, when Jerónimo Paricio opened an establishment dedicated to selling wine and spirits. Later, two employees of the premises, siblings Cesáreo and María, took over the business together with their families.

Today, Teresa, Eva and Millán Cabrera, descendants of that family line, remain in charge of the establishment. “People come in and tell us that they used to visit when they were children with their parents or grandparents,” Teresa explains.

THE ESSENCE OF ANOTHER ERA

Antigua Casa Paricio originally opened as a bulk wine cellar, an activity that was very common in many Zaragoza neighborhoods for much of the 20th century. With the arrival of supermarkets and changes in consumer habits, the business gradually adapted until the bar and its tapas became the focus of its activity, its owners recall.

Despite the changes, the premises retain many elements from that era. The original vats are still part of the establishment, which also preserves an electric refrigerator installed in 1934 that is still working today. In those years, many residents came there to buy ice bars and keep food better preserved at home. “It was one of the first refrigerators seen in Zaragoza that cooled by itself without needing ice inside,” Eva says.

The appearance of the premises has barely changed over the decades. The wood, the bar and the old tavern atmosphere remain part of a business that several generations of Zaragoza residents associate with weekend vermouth.

VERMOUTH WITH A SIPHON AND BRINED ANCHOVIES

Although the business has evolved over the years, some customs remain practically unchanged. Vermouth is still served with a siphon, a tradition that was common in Zaragoza decades ago. Alongside the drink, brined anchovies have become one of the house’s best-known products, together with the cod balls prepared on weekends.

Although customs have changed, vermouth still holds an important place at Casa Paricio. The bar continues to fill up every weekend with customers who keep the aperitif tradition alive. Ernesto Garcés is one of them. For years, he has visited the premises every Friday to repeat the same routine: vermouth with a siphon and brined anchovies.

The establishment also gained popularity after appearing in La estrella azul, the film by Javier Macipe inspired by the life of Zaragoza musician Mauricio Aznar. Part of the crew already knew the venue and felt it perfectly matched the atmosphere they were looking for in one of the scenes. “It was a boom,” Eva recalls of the film’s impact.

ON THE ROAD TO 100 YEARS

Antigua Casa Paricio is now approaching its centenary as one of the historic businesses still surviving in Zaragoza. “Places that remain for so long also become part of the city’s history,” Teresa argues.

As Zaragoza changes, vermouth with a siphon and anchovies remain part of the routine for many long-standing customers at Casa Paricio.