Zaragoza

Casa Royo, a Zaragoza spot for ternasco, charcoal grilling and traditional cooking

Good culinary traditions should never be lost. While Zaragoza embraces street food, fusion cuisine and fine dining, some restaurants continue to champion the flavors of the past.
Casa Royo, a Zaragoza spot for ternasco, charcoal grilling and traditional cooking

That is the case at Casa Royo, located at 1 Camino del Tomillar, where traditional cooking, charcoal grilling and local produce take center stage. Ternasco de Aragón, longaniza, chorizo and morcilla are all part of a simple, distinctly Aragonese offering full of character.

Although its former manager, Félix Royo, retired two years ago, his legacy remains exactly as he left it, thanks to the new management led by siblings José Luis and Inmaculada Roda. And when we say the legacy remains unchanged, José Luis makes that clear: they have kept the same restaurant, the same offerings, the same products and even the same suppliers. All of this is intended to continue providing an alternative, high-quality option within Zaragoza’s current culinary scene.

It is about preserving an essence and safeguarding an important part of Zaragoza’s culinary heritage without losing sight of the future. Through this guiding principle, we tell the story of Casa Royo, officially now known as “Antigua Casa Royo,” one of Zaragoza’s great strongholds of charcoal-grilled cuisine.

A CHANGE IN MANAGEMENT

The story of Casa Royo began like that of any other restaurant, with the hope of making a living. Félix Royo’s parents, Ángel and Sara, founded the restaurant in 1947 and stepped on the gas to build a brand that quickly won over the hearts and palates of Zaragoza residents, as well as tourists traveling along the Logroño road.

Félix Royo’s parents, Ángel and Sara, founded the restaurant in 1947. Photo: Antigua Casa Royo

In 1984, Félix took over, continuing to develop a brand and working method committed to purely Aragonese products. Although those 40 years were marked by great happiness, all good things eventually come to an end. Royo announced that it was time for him to retire, so it seemed the restaurant was going to close indefinitely. However, a twist of fate appeared to change the course of events.

“At first, it was going to be a definitive closure, but through some contacts we have in common, they introduced Félix to both my family and me. We run our company together, which also includes a two-star hotel-restaurant with two Repsol Suns called El Azafrán 176 on the Mudéjar Motorway. We started talking to him and there was a very natural connection, so Félix decided to lease us the premises. Although he is no longer the manager, he remains the owner of Casa Royo and comes to visit us or eat with his friends every week,” explains José Luis Roda.

PRESERVING THE ESSENCE

This new transition took place on July 15, 2024, under new management and with the name “Antigua Casa Royo.” However, as Roda explains fondly, “everyone still calls the place ‘Casa Royo’; the brand has not changed for anyone. Above all, what mattered most to us, and what we promised Félix, was that the essence would remain the same. Besides, there is no point in changing something you know works.”

And it certainly works. If there is one thing that sets Casa Royo apart, it is undoubtedly the value of what it offers. The restaurant has a four-meter charcoal grill, making it a “real” charcoal grill house and an authentic restaurant specializing in grilled meat. It also has its own butcher shop inside the restaurant, where whole ternasco lambs are delivered—each weighing around 11 kilos—so the butcher can break them down.

The venue’s offerings are highly appreciated by diners. Photo: Antigua Casa Royo

Among its most classic products are the ternasco chops, chorizo, morcilla and the famous Patatas Royo, all made with the same products, suppliers and home-style cooking processes, as the new manager insists. Nevertheless, Roda also says they have added “small additions” to give their offering a distinctive touch.

These include their own salads, charcoal-grilled octopus, grilled fish, tempura piparras and artichokes, to name a few. These products can be found on its affordable set menu, available from Monday to Friday, or on its extensive and ambitious à la carte menu. “We do not want to deceive anyone or serve fifth-range dishes, overly sweetened, pre-cooked food or anything with the flavor of ‘old sheep’—in the case of ternasco or grilled dishes—which is what is often served outside Aragón when people try to sell products supposedly from the region or belonging to traditional Aragonese cuisine. We simply want to preserve the essence of the past,” the manager says.

A STRONGHOLD OF TRADITIONAL CUISINE

When taking over the business, the Roda siblings were very aware of Zaragoza’s culinary landscape, where, as José Luis puts it, “Gourmet” food predominates. “These types of traditional restaurants and grill houses have completely disappeared in Zaragoza because it is a city driven by trends. That is neither good nor bad; it is simply reality, and both ends of the market can coexist.” “We were clear that we wanted to follow Félix’s method because it is based on local products from the area, which is this restaurant’s greatest strength,” he continues.

Charcoal-grilled octopus is a hit. Photo: Antigua Casa Royo

Now, just a few months away from completing a year at the helm of Casa Royo, Roda looks back on a journey marked by “sales, but also by some criticism for meeting expectations. The first month was difficult because people criticized us on social media without having visited the restaurant; they thought we would not be able to continue Félix’s legacy. But we carried on and ultimately received our reward.”

They not only managed to overcome the doubts of many diners with longstanding ties to the restaurant, but also attracted a new customer segment that had not previously been present: “We have managed to attract a group of people in their twenties, who bring another perspective to the business and are genuinely looking for this type of offering. Amid so much ‘Street Food’ and fusion cuisine, they want to discover a traditional local offering through charcoal grilling and explore different flavors,” says Roda.

In this way, Casa Royo looks to the future while continuing to satisfy palates and hearts as it always has. In a recent period when things seem to be improving all the time, despite minor turbulence caused by events such as the major blackout on April 28—which did not prevent people from eating at Casa Royo, although they had to wait for the power to return before closing the restaurant—the venue has established itself, thanks to the commitment of the Roda siblings and the family’s indelible legacy, as an essential stronghold for those seeking a sincere experience without artifice or pretension: Aragonese food to “eat properly,” as Roda concludes.

About this article: Originally published in Spanish by AragonDigital.es and—following a selection process by our journalists—made available to the international audience of AragonDaily.com. Both newspapers belong to companies within the ARAGON DIGITAL GROUP.